Home' Scoop : Scoop 52 Contents 168 SCOOP AUTUMN 2010
JOY ON THE JETTY
JoJo's Cafe | NEDLANDS
A legend of the Perth restaurant scene
brings his own unique touch to the
superbly located JoJo's.
Umberto Tinelli has been very busy over the past 20
years. His first pizzeria, Chianti at the old Orchard
Hotel, was one of the early places to offer wood-
fired pizzas, and then came Campo de Fiori in
Applecross, Chianti on Collins in West Perth, which
was then followed by Il Principe around the corner.
A couple of years back, he took over the iconic
JoJo s site on the Nedlands foreshore, kept its name
but gave it a much-needed culinary overhaul.
Most of the venue is given over to the function
room (Acqua Viva) as it always was, with the cafe
on the northern side. The location is superb, with
the building literally floating on the river ensuring
gorgeous views from every table.
My father, who doesn t understand why you
would pay good money to eat at table with no
tablecloth (I must admit I am rather partial to one
myself ), is happy with the crisp, white linen.
The staff are friendly and efficient and we are
seated and ordering in no time. One glance at
the menu confirms that this is, most definitely, a
Tinelli establishment. In addition to a few little
surprises, such as zucchini flowers, there are the
usual suspects such as gnocchi, various pasta and
salad dishes and a selection of meats and seafood.
The wine list, however, is quite limited with
not one riesling to be found. For a place with such
wonderful views and really good, honest food, I
would have expected a bit more. The only wines
by the glass are a couple of WA house wines,
which makes things a bit difficult if you are after a
white and your dining companion prefers red.
The fritters of zucchini flowers, which I haven t
eaten in years but which, when done well, are
superb, arrive crispy and piping hot. A northern
Italian specialty, they are often stuffed with a meat
filling but these six little delicacies were simply
seasoned then dipped in a light tempura batter and
Prawn and calamari Umberto is, once again,
authentically Italian. The seafood is tossed in a rich
sauce of tomatoes, anchovies and a good dose of
chilli, all served on a bed of well-cooked vermicelli
pasta. Some crusty bread to mop up the juices
rounds off a wonderful dish and something you
won t find on many other menus.
Fish of the day was wild barramundi and it
didn t disappoint. Seared so the skin is crispy then
cooked more slowly to ensure it doesn t dry out,
it was very good. Simply brushed with olive oil,
seasoned with salt and pepper and served with a
garden salad, it was fresh and uncomplicated.
Similarly, a honey-infused vinaigrette jazzed
up a salad of roast pumpkin, spinach, basil and
roasted pine nuts. The gnocchi, surprisingly, was
not as impressive. Although the dish was some-
what salvaged by a fantastic tomato passata, the
gnocchi themselves were doughy.
Although there is no children s menu, chef
Adam Swan was more than happy to serve up
smaller portions of pasta or fish. JoJo s Cafe is a
beautiful place to enjoy a great meal and will leave
Freccia Gastronomy | SUBIACO
Alessandro Croci's divine offerings
bring the heart and soul of Italian
cooking to your own dinner table.
Can t think of what to have for dinner tonight?
Don t want to cook but want something
homemade? Alessandro Croci could be your
salvation. From a tiny shop front on Forrest St
Subi, (between Escabeche and Head Strong for
Hair) he is preparing some very good Italian
fare. Drop in for takeaway lunch packs or pick
up tonight s dinner -- tortellini with mushroom
and cream sauce, fettucini, ravioli with sundried
tomato sauce or a slab of lasagna.
His gnocchi, made the same way his grand-
mother in Como, Italy, taught him, are flicked
off the fork, just as they should be, ensuring
they re the perfect consistency.
Prices vary from $8 for a small serve to $12
for a large. For something different that s usu-
ally not found outside Sicily, try his eggplant
involtini stuffed with macaroni -- great stuff --
or one of the various meat dishes.
Pizza by the slice is very popular and I
couldn t resist the plain tomato and spinach
one. The crust is crispy, not too thick, the
tomatoes sweet. At $6 for a huge slice, it s
good value. Freccia is also selling the only
gluten-free fresh pasta in WA.
The store has been open since last April
and, according to Alessandro, business is good
as people are discovering that fast food can be
delicious and healthy too.
Catering is available for small and large
gatherings. Or, for something different, why
not have Alessandro himself come to your
home and cook for your next dinner party?
At around $55/head, depending on the
menu, your chef arrives, cooks a three-course
meal, cleans your kitchen and goes. All you
have to do is set the table and provide the
Open Monday to Friday 10am-5pm. 1 Forrest
Street, Subiaco. (08) 9380 9992,
you wondering why you haven t been there sooner.
Fully licensed and open Tuesday to Saturday, 11.30am
- 3pm; 5.30pm - 9pm and Sunday 11.30am - 3pm.
Closed public holidays. On the Jetty, Nedlands
foreshore. (08) 9386 8757, jojosrestaurant.com.
Prawn and calamari Umberto
(From left) Michelle Dalili,
Sarah Worker, & Troy Melia
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