Home' Scoop : Scoop 52 Winter 2010 Contents 168 scoop WINTER 2010
TASTE with marina fiore « firstname.lastname@example.org
From Thai in Nedlands to snacking by the sea, Marina Fiore tracks
down the best options for eating out this winter.
images tim lofthouse
LA LOLA | Nedlands
Luckily for me or, as I prefer to
believe, because of me, my husband
thinks Italian women are very sexy.
He also loves Italian food, which nat-
urally leads to an absolute adoration
of an Italian woman who can cook.
Now the chef at La Lola in Nedlands
may be a man but the magnificent
photo of the eponymous siren Gina Lollobrigida
that dominates the chic and sexy lounge area is
100 percent woman. But I digress. La Lola in Ned-
lands is about much more than the Italian screen
goddess. It s small and alluring, with an expensive
fit-out that oozes class. La Lola doesn t take book-
ings, doesn t accept tables of more than six, and is
small and fabulous.
Opening in February on the site of the old
Pavarotti s in Hampden Road, La Lola has brought
back unpretentious dining in a polished, uber-cool
setting. Pronto in Claremont pioneered this sort of
eating experience many years ago but, since then,
there has been a move away from these small, chic
but casual establishments. With La Lola, owner
Michael De Marte has created a stylish but laid-
back Italian trattoria with a va va voom style edge.
Corrado Valentini heads up front of house and
Tony Garita (he used to be at Bar One in the city)
runs the kitchen.
Pop along on any evening and La Lola is buzz-
ing. Cleverly they have converted some space at
the back into a sleek little lounge area where you
can enjoy a glass of prosecco and some stuzzichini
(nibbles or "shared plates"). Don t go past the Car-
ciofi. These artichoke hearts are dipped in a light bat-
ter, patted in crumbs and dunked in piping hot oil.
Crunchy and fantastic. Good quality, spicy chorizo
is squirted with lime and melts in the mouth. By
the time I bite into a well-seasoned Arancini of
crabmeat, tomato and parsley, I m hooked.
White Spanish anchovies with shaved fennel
and buffalo mozzarella are an exercise in careful re-
straint. Freshness and well-mixed flavours combine
to create a great little dish.
Beef Carpaccio uses high quality eye fil-
let -- there is no room for marbling here -- and is
drizzled with truffle oil. Although it went through
a stage of being wildly overused, the earthy taste
works beautifully. For something more substantial,
try the linguini with prawns, capers, olives and
chilli. The pasta is silky, the sauce a pure Mediter-
Pizzas, as you would hope, are thin and crispy
and available as takeaways, and prices are good.
OPEN Monday to Saturday, 5.40pm -- late.
Fully licensed. 25A Hampden Road, Nedlands,
(08) 9386 5554.
YOU MUST TRY ...
... the gnocchi at Perugino in West Perth. Gnoc-
chi are, more often than not, disappointing. They
are either gluggy and mushy, or too floury and
doughy. They have to be just the right consistency
and cooked for just the right amount of time, or else
they will be a disaster. Notoriously unforgiving, they
are not easy to get right but, when they're good,
they are a true delight. If you're after a wonderful
gnocchi experience, head to Perugino in West Perth.
This fine-dining Italian institution serves the finest
gnocchi you are likely to find. Served with a rich, silky
duck ragú, they are sublime.
olives and chilli.
OUR REVIEW POLICY: Scoop's objective is to find
and recommend the leading cafes, restaurants and bars in
WA, particularly those newly opened or that have undergone
significant change, as well as the occasional hidden jewel
and what is considered hot right now. All reviews are
unannounced and paid for. Interviews with the chef are only
ever conducted after the meal. Many restaurants visited each
edition are not included as they are considered either less
worthy or completely unworthy of recommendation. Enjoy!
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