Home' Scoop : Scoop 52 Winter 2010 Contents What are your thoughts on the state
of dining in WA?
When it comes to cuisine, we've got a bit of
everything. The people of WA are lucky to have all
this choice and quality. The only thing lacking is serv-
ice. Although we train apprentices to cook, we never
train waiters. If we didn't have backpackers, half the
restaurants in Perth would be closed by now. I was
lucky to have professional waiters working for me,
people who knew what they were doing. But a lot of
them are getting old now. I'm not sure who's going
to train the new generation.
Do you have another restaurant in you?
I don't know. I can't say yes or no. I've been working
in kitchens for 52 years, lifting pots and doing
things. My back and shoulder hurt. Every person
that comes to your restaurant is like having a guest
over at your house. It's tough. But you do it for love,
you don't do it for money. I've worked hard my
whole life, but if I had the option to do it all again,
I'd do it in a minute.
What would be on the menu for Jean Daniel's
Bouillabaisse, we do it here sometimes. Washed
down with a nice premier cru chablis. And a French
Frogs Legs and Kangaroo Tales (self-published,
$29.99) by Jean Daniel Ichallalene and Ray Sparvell is
available at Chez Pierre and online at thejollyfrog.com
IF SPENDING MORE than half a century in the
demanding restaurant business doesn't qualify Jean
Daniel Ichallalene for legend status, one has to
wonder if anyone in Perth deserves the tag.
A genteel Gaul whose mouth is shaped into a
permanent, room-lighting grin, Jean Daniel has
been the force behind some of the state's most
cherished eateries including Hilite 33, Pierre's Garden
Restaurant and the quasi-eponymous The Jolly Frog.
Now the Frenchman's remarkable journey has
been retold in Frogs Legs and Kangaroo Tales, an
autobiography-cum-cookbook that retraces Jean
Daniel's travels, from life as a farmer's son in
Ternant in France's Bourgogne region to watching
with pride as son Pierre continues the family tradi-
tion in Nedlands' Chez Pierre.
Ever the gracious host, the "Jolly Frog" sits down
with Scoop for a gastronomic French lesson.
What does French cuisine mean to Jean
It's all about sauces. There are 3500 different sauces
in French cuisine. Without sauces, French cuisine
doesn't exist, it'd be a barbecue that everyone
could do. If you don't have these sauces, you don't
have this cuisine.
What were some of the challenges you faced
when you arrived in Perth?
It was hard to find fresh herbs. At the start, I
had to use a lot of dry herbs. Then I found an Italian
farmer in Bunbury who grew things for me and
after telling other people what I wanted, they
started planting a lot of stuff for me too. Of course
now you can find everything fresh, but it was a
lot different back then.
Everything that s good about food and wine
comes together under one giant roof. With
a huge range of producers and suppliers
represented, there will be food and wine to sample,
gadgets to see, as well as cooking demonstrations
and hands-on activities to try. They are also holding
a great range of classes.
Cheesematters masterclass. Experienced
cheese educator Naomi Crisante will lead your
tastebuds on a journey matching cheese with wine
and a range of accompaniments. Book your tickets
soon, this class will sell out quickly. Classes are $30
a person and include a 45-minute tutored tasting,
cheese samples, tasting glasses of three wines,
accompaniments and course materials and a 112-page
Cheesematters recipe book valued at $19.95.
Wine tasting There will be two highly respected
Riedel Glass Tasting sessions over the weekend, held
in the Riedel Wine Theatre and hosted by Mark
Baulderstone, MD of Riedel Australia. The sessions
guide you as you sample wines in a range of different
glasses. Tickets are $120 each (plus show entry) and
include four glasses from the Vitis range (valued at
$299.95) to take home. The Riedel Decanter Bar will
also present a series of 45-minute premium-tasting
sessions that are are a haven for wine connoisseurs. A
Wine Lovers ticket ($75) will get you entry to the
show, into the Riedel Decanter Bar session of your
choice, a Riedel glass, bottle of wine and a copy of
Gourmet Traveller Magazine.
The Gourmet Garden Cooking School
Join celebrity chef Dominique Rizzo and learn how
to whip up quick and easy meals using fresh Gourmet
Garden herbs and spices. Participants will prepare two
meals and get to sit and enjoy a glass of wine with the
scrumptious finished product. For $50 (plus show
entry) participants will discover healthy cooking and
receive a herbs and spices goodie bag.
Pre-bookings are advised for all sessions, go to
goodfoodshow.com.au for more details. Tickets to the
Good Food & Wine Show are available through Tick-
etek on 13 28 49 or goodfoodshow.com.au. Adult entry
is $30. From July 2-4.
GOOD FOOD AND
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