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"Stiff Steve" and "Liquid Leroy". At New Norcia
Bakeries, baker Kingsley Sullivan maintains five
different sourdough-starters, each one designed
for a specific style of bread.
It s his belief that when it comes to gluten
intolerance, insufficient fermenting lies at the heart
of the problem. "My research shows that bread
needs to ferment for a minimum of four hours
before the gluten is converted into a form that is
easily digestible by the human body," he says.
Most modern, mass-produced bread gets
nowhere near that length of time. "If you think
you re gluten intolerant, I suggest you try eating
some slow-fermented artisan bread and see if you still
have a problem. You might be surprised to discover
you can eat wheat flour after all," he says.
Such is the demand, he s just launched New
Norcia s first gluten-free loaf. "It s a combination
of rice, potato and lupin flours together with some
corn masa," he says, "and it tastes great!"
At Perth s 44 King Street, new executive chef
David Pearse works with two bakers, developing a
range of artisan breads made from scratch in-house
and sold to-go at the front counter.
"The Kalamata olive bread is a firm favourite,
and our fruit bread is amazing with strong cheese,"
says David. "If there s any left at the end of the
day, we give it to the Salvation Army."
Barrett s Bread in Nedlands, meanwhile, has
been producing quality artisan breads for more than
12 years. "We specialise in slow-fermented styles,
allowing the bread to develop flavour," says owner-
baker Greg Sommer. "The original sourdough
culture was started more than 400 years ago."
Greg is particularly proud of his sourdough.
"Our starter comes from Poilane s bakery in Paris."
At Abhi s in South Fremantle, owner-baker
Heinz Muller produces some of Perth s most rustic
artisan breads, including a range of wheat-free
sourdoughs and organic breads. "We use up to 10
different flours and 15 types of grains and seeds
each day," says Heinz.
And if it s traditional Italian bread you re looking
for, head to Il Panino in Beaconsfield, where baker
Nick Agostino makes his breads the old-fashioned
way: slowly and carefully. At Il Panino you ll
find Pagnotta, Calabrese, Siciliano and many
other styles of traditional Italian loaf, as well as
fantastic ciabatta rolls.
Another Perth favourite is Lawley s, where they
make 14 different styles including five different
flatbreads, a wonderful cape seed loaf and hand-
moulded sourdoughs, some of them yeast-free. sm
ABHI'S 270 South Tce, South Fremantle. 9430 4373.
BARRETT'S BREAD 19a Broadway, Nedlands.
GREENHOUSE PERTH 100 St Georges Terrace,
Perth. 9481 8333.
IL PANINO 13/115 Lefroy Road, Beaconsfield.
LAWLEY'S 562 Beaufort Street, Mount Lawley.
NEW NORCIA BAKERIES 163 Scarborough Beach
Road, Mount Hawthorn. 9443 4114.
44 KING STREET 44 King Street, Perth. 9321 4476.
BREAD: The basics
Whether bread is made using a traditional
sourdough-starter or commercial baker's yeast,
the process is fundamentally the same. Water
is mixed with flour, salt and the leavening
agent (baker's yeast or sourdough-starter).
The mixed dough is then allowed to rise one
or more times. A longer rising time results in
more flavour, so bakers often punch down the
dough and let it rise again. Then loaves are
formed, and, after an optional final rising
time, the bread is baked.
Gluten « Two of the proteins found in
wheat flour are glutenin and gliadin. When
these two proteins are kneaded, they form a
chainlike network of strands known as gluten.
When bread goes into the oven, this network
of strands coagulates and solidifies, trapping
the carbon dioxide bubbles created by the
yeast fermentation within the dough, making
the loaf of bread rise.
Flour power « Flour dust is explosive!
Some devastating and fatal explosions have
occurred at flour mills. On May 2nd 1878, at The
Washburn A Mill, Minnesota -- the largest flour
mill in the US at the time -- a stray spark ignited
the flour dust, triggering a gigantic explosion
that killed 18 workers. The Great Fire of London
in 1666, which destroyed most of central London,
started in a bakery in Pudding Lane and was
also most likely due to a flour explosion.
"If thou tastest a crust of bread, thou tastest all the stars
and all the heavens." ~ poet Robert Browning.
EAT UP: (from left) Tasty
loaves from Abhi's; Bread
from Lawley's; A selection
from New Norcia Bakeries
and Abhi's chilli bread.
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