Home' Scoop : Scoop 53 Spring 2010 Contents 122 scoop SPRING 2010
The company says after receiving the patent
in 1978, the founders spent 10 years trying to get
skincare companies to listen before starting their
own. Once other companies caught on, they began
licensing the patent to use AHAs.
In 1996, after a decade of providing a brand
to dermatologists, NeoStrata beg an creating
consumer products. They’ve now taken AHAs to
the next level – polyhydroxy acids (PHAs).
A PHA, a lactobionic acid, makes up 10 per
cent of NeoStrata Bionic Face Ser um, $68 (30ml).
An in-house study on a cream with eight per cent
lactobionic acid showed reduced fine lines by 37
per cent and laxity improvement of 16 per cent.
The study was done on 31 women aged 35-60
with mild to moderate sun damage over 12 weeks.
Tests included trained evaluators doing an under-
eye Pinch Recoil test (pinching skin and recording
time to recovery). This is a recognised indicator
of skin firmness, the company says. They also
collected plumping measurements on treated and
untreated forearms. Biopsies were also taken.
So that all sounds pretty comprehensive, but
how do some of the glamorous, well-known
companies – and some of the less well-known –
stack up in the scientific research stakes?
Clarins says its Generation 6 Double Serum,
$103 (30ml), reduces the appearance of wrinkles
and helps restore firmness. For age 25 plus,
ingredients include pine, rocket, kiwi fruit and
mar ula. Clarins says in tests 70 per cent of users
noticed fewer fine lines and wrinkles and 82 per
cent noticed they had more luminous skin.
For women age 50 plus, Guerlain has the
Success Age Splendid range – Deep-Action Day
Care, $263, and Night Care, $316 (both 50ml).
Guerlain says at this age a woman’s skin
changes so that it’s exposed to more androg ens
(male hormones) than before, leading to slackening
and dryness. Its Intense Magnolia Concentrate, it
says, “helps diminish the production of receptors
available to androgens” by 77 per cent (in vitro
tests, which means in a test tube) and so stimulates
the action of oestrogens (female hormones).
It says clinical evaluation by a dermatologist
on 31 women after eight weeks of using the day
cream showed “improvement of slackening on
the face observed in 94 per cent of subjects” and
“smoother, denser and more elastic skin... in
100 per cent.” Instrumental measurement on 24
women showed “improvement of slackening on
face... in 80 per cent of subjects.”
Fion So from Guerlain says testing is usually
done in-house. She does add that Guerlain’s head
of research collaborates with medical specialists.
The less well-known Swede Success made a
splash in 2003 with its 24 Hour Original Creme,
$98 (50ml). Back then the company was called
Shi’Jäno – a tricky name for non-Scandi types,
perhaps – and the product was D&N Creme. The
website says it’s the only non-prescriptive face
cream with a clinical trial proving “a reduction of
wrinkles by an average of 51 per cent (and up to 65
per cent) over a 12-week period as published in the
prestigious British Journal of Dermatology”.
An independent trial – a double-blind, placebo-
controlled study – was done by Karolinska
University Hospital’s Chairman of Der matology,
who used laser technology to measure wrinkle depth.
Small molecules that penetrate into the dermis
and alpha lipoic acid (not an AHA) are said to be
the key. The company says: “Studies show that
oxidised vitamins E and C in the...dermis... are
converted into an active form when the lipoic
acid reaches the skin cells. Both... are strong
antioxidants... Studies also indicate that lipoic
acid stimulates skin cells to convert skin’s existing
vitamin A into vitamin A acid, which also has a
repairing effect on wrinkles.”
Results for the company’s Lifting Serum, $105
(30ml), were also impressive and were published in
the international journal Phytomedicine in 2007.
Dr Reid points to another product that made
it into the British Journal of Dermatology last
year – UK company Boots No 7 Protect & Perfect
Intense Beauty Ser um (£20.50 ($35.50) for 30ml),
which underwent a clinical trial (funded by Boots)
at the University of Manchester. It showed 70 per
cent of subjects had “significantly fewer” wrinkles
after a year of daily use. It works by stimulating
production of the protein fibrillin-1 . You can’t buy
it here but if visiting the UK, drop into Boots.
So, make up your own mind – is it the alluring
“come hither” of the top shelf for you, or a
supermarket skincare cream that doesn’t cost as
much as a mortgage payment? sm
Urban beauty myths examined
Loredana Farina, Chair of the Advanced Association of Beauty Therapists, reveals the truth.
Expensive moisturiser is better – Loredana explains that moisturiser prevents loss of moisture
caused by sun and wind and air-conditioning. “As they say, what you pay for is what you get –
the reason cheap moisturiser is cheap is due to the quality of ingredients,” she says. Cheaper
creams contain fillers, such as lanolin, she adds. This is also found in expensive creams but is
more refined. “The size of the molecule determines whether it can be absorbed by the skin.”
You must use a separate eye cream – “Eye creams are promoted because the skin around
the eye area is about 12 layers thinner than the skin on the face. There are products on the
market that serve for both eyes and face which are suitable. It’s probably fair to say that it’s a
marketing strategy by cosmetics companies to sell another product to the consumer.”
FROM TOP Cellular Cream Platinum Rare, La Prairie;
Success Age Splendid Deep-Action Day Care, Guerlain;
24 Hour Original Creme, and Lifting Serum, both
Shi’Jäno (now called Swede Success – packaging was
being updated at time of going to print).
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