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BLACKBIRD | East Perth
East Perth is another one of those areas that seems
to be really taking off. Lamont’s and Cream have
long been established on the Perth dining scene
but now there many other eating options. From the
much-vaunted Restaurant Amusé to small, bustling
restaurants to waterfront venues, this once run-down
part of Perth has really come into its own.
Fiona Joseph opened Blackbird – a relaxed,
bistro-style eatery, on the waterfront site of the old
Little Moorish restaurant – about three months ago.
Head chef Carl Scivone (he used to be at Duende)
has put together a concise but clever menu with a
nod to French-style bistro cuisine. We sat outside
and soaked up the sun. With crisp linen, great
service and, that most rare of things, complimentary
bread – beautiful baguettes from the fabulous West
End Deli – it was an auspicious start.
It’s interesting how dishes seem to make
comebacks. I have seen steak tartare on three
different menus lately, all done differently. It must
be the Masterchef influence at work again since it
was featured in series one. Whatever the reason,
I’m thrilled, as when it’s done well (which it often
isn’t) it’s sublime. Blackbird’s is excellent. A mound
of beautiful, well-trimmed and ground fillet with a
perfect little quail egg yolk in the middle, sitting in
the half-shell. Nice touch. It’s all surrounded by an
array of condiments. Mix it all together and enjoy.
The balance of flavours was wonderful: not too much
mustard, just enough Tabasco, a good dose of salt
and pepper, and tangy onion. This dish isn’t for
everyone but if you like carpaccio, give it a try.
Spaghetti with baby squid and pancetta was a
light and breezy dish. The squid melted in the mouth
and was nicely offset by the crunchy pancetta.
Not so light but equally satisfying was the
raviolo (yes, there is only one) with braised oxtail
and a fricassee of mushroom. Slow-cooked in red
wine, shallots and a hint of thyme, with the silky
mushrooms added, the rich, full-bodied sauce packs
quite a punch. The pasta was a little overcooked but
it didn’t matter as it’s all about the oxtail stew. Divine.
The wine list is small and well-priced.
Finish off with banana fritters or a crumble.
The ever-attentive Russell ensures service is spot
on. Blackbird is about simple, heart-warming fare,
which is what makes this new restaurant quite
special. Definitely worth a visit.
OPEN Wednesday - Friday (lunch), Wednesday - Sunday
(dinner). 10 Eastbrook Tce, East Perth, (08) 9225 7880.
Blackbird offers a relaxed,
The steak tartare comes with a quail egg yolk
in a half-shell. BELOW RIGHT Raviolo with
braised oxtail and fricassee of mushroom.
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