Home' Scoop : Scoop 53 Spring 2010 Contents 186 scoop SPRING 2010
compete with them. As expected, Andrew’s menu
heavily featured Western Australian produce with
emphasis on fresh, clean ingredients. He prefers
food to stay pretty true to its original form, where
flavour and balance reign. A wonderful philosophy.
A sublime tagliatelle of oysters (a recipe from
Marco Pierre White) kicked off our meal. Slightly
poached so as not to disturb the delicate texture,
the oyster was placed on a bed of tagliatelle, sitting
in the oyster shell. Unusual and subtle, it was a
corker of a dish and was made all the more divine
by the accompanying creamy 2000 Cuveé Dom
Pérignon. I’d like all my meals to start that way!
Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé NV was poured
just as our ballontine of salmon arrived. Another
Michelin Rating system
“A very good restaurant in its own category”
“Excellent cooking, worth a detour”
“Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.
One always eats extremely well here, sometimes superbly”
Criteria for awarding stars Commonly misunderstood. Criteria such as number of
waiters, table setting and quality of facilities or equipment are not taken into account.
Marco Pierre White dish, this was thought by a
few to be the dish of the night and was an exercise
in technique. The salmon is partly deconstructed,
filleted, pin-boned and skinned with all fat and
brown flesh removed. It’s then cut down the
centre, seasoned with salt and lemon and rolled
in herbs. Here’s the good bit – it’s wrapped tightly
in plastic wrap then cooked sous vide (basically
poached) at 43°C degrees for 50 minutes.
Finally, it’s chilled quickly in a bath of iced
water to arrest the cooking process and so that it
retains its shape – it won’t develop a flat-bottomed
side in the water. It’s a simply stunning dish.
(Don’t try this at home!)
Our palates were well limbered up by now.
Andrew’s own soup of Jer usalem artichoke and
thyme was the perfect circuit breaker. The little
artichokes (why do they call them Jerusalem
artichokes? They are not from Israel and they are
not artichokes. Odd) are peeled and sweated with
onion and thyme then deglazed in wine.
Stock is added and reduced, milk and cream
go in and then it’s blitzed, giving it a light, almost
STAR TURN (clockwise from left) Chef Andrew Barnes;
enjoying a sedate – and sumptuous – evening; the oaky,
spicy Penfolds 1983 Grange Hermitage; the ballontine of
salmon – a highlight for several of our gourmands.
Links Archive Scoop 52 Winter 2010 Scoop 54 Summer 2010 Navigation Previous Page Next Page