Home' Scoop : Scoop 53 Spring 2010 Contents 212 scoop SPRING 2010
Margaret River shone throughout the entire tasting,
with five different varieties accounted for in its gold
medal winners (and Shiraz sneaking into the silver).
Comments from judges suggest that the Margaret
River Cabernet class of 2007 is the safest bet for red
wine drinkers. Among the 2008 wines, it was finesse
and restraint that impressed, but the quality of vintage
2009 really excited tasters. Expect the region’s 09 Cab
Savs to offer opulent fruit flavours and ripe tannins
that, matched to careful oak handling and smart
winemaking, could lead to some of the decade’s best.
WILLS DOMAIN 2009 CR Chardonnay, $45, 18.5
Whether you think of this wine as powerfully elegant
or elegantly powerful, there’s no disputing its class. It
opens with complex white-peach and nutty-cashew
aromas. There’s a nutty complexity at play beneath
the rich, high-toned palate of stone fruit and the
finish is as fresh and clean as the proverbial whistle.
FLAMETREE 2009 Margaret River Cabernet Merlot, $28, 18.5
Following the Jimmy Watson-winning 2007 vintage
and also the superb 2008, the 2009 release of this
wine shows cool and refined fruit intensity supported
by fine tannins. A ripe wine bursting with flavour
and concentration, its high quality French oak is well
integrated into the fruit for a seamless finish.
WINDANCE 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, $20, 18.5
A delightful aromatic wine, with aromas of lychee,
avocado and slight grassiness that jump out of the
glass. Beautifully balanced, it has perfect weight for
the style, ripe fruit and a really nice clean finish. A
great example of the style, showing what a good
vintage 2010 was for whites in Margaret River.
LEEUWIN ESTATE 2008 Riesling, $22, 18.5
Who says Margaret River can’t make good Riesling?
The wine, in common with recent vintages, has a
clean bouquet with light honey and cracked-straw
aromas from the start of bottle development. The
palate follows suit, with great length and refinement
and a fresh crisp finish. A great cellaring style and a
delight to drink.
WILLS DOMAIN 2007 CR Semillon, $25, 18.5
These guys are kicking a lot of goals with their
whites. The 2007 vintage in Margaret River was
outstanding, producing ripe wine styles such as this.
Semillon is a wine which ages beautifully without
oak, and this is a classic example. A ripe toasty
bouquet from bottle development is mirrored on the
palate, which is toasty, honeyed, rich and long.
FRASER GALLOP ESTATE 2009 Chardonnay, $30, 17.5
Since parting ways with Vasse Felix, Clive Otto has
hit the ground running at his new Wilyabrup home,
consistently producing wines of the highest order
that play to regional strengths. A complex style
featuring lemony, smoky oak and funky wild-yeast
aromas. Great fruit on the palate framed by tight
acid giving the wine length and ageing potential.
HOUGHTON 2005 Gladstones
Cabernet Sauvignon, $72, 17.5
This is opening with some very ripe and complex
Cabernet characters, yet it’s still so very fresh and
elegant that you could cellar it for much longer.
A powerful wine showing great balance between
fruit and oak intensity with some perfectly matched,
fine-grained tannins giving it structure and finesse.
WARNER GLEN ESTATE 2009
Margaret River Chardonnay, $27, 17.5
After years of selling their fruit to others, Travis and
John French decided it was high time they began
making their own wine. This is a throwback to the
lovable Aussie chardies of yore: big and full; toasty,
smoky oak; rich buttery characters on a firm and full
palate. A wine that packs a punch.
PALMER WINES 2008 Reserve Shiraz, $48, 17.3
A fine result from Palmers in this tasting with two
exemplary Shiraz from the outstanding 2008 vintage.
This has a deep, bright red colour with enticing varietal
aromas and flavours in the spicy/berry spectrum.
Oak is there too, but is deftly handled and doesn’t
dominate the fruit. Overall, the wine is bright and fresh
with excellent richness, palate length and balance.
BROWN HILL 2010 Charlotte Sauvignon Blanc, $17, 17
Brown Hill Estate, from the southern Margaret River
region, has produced a steady stream of excellent
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