Home' Scoop : Scoop 54 Summer 2010 Contents AD
“On the site of old Little Cloud (Nuvoletta means a little cloud in
Italian), this Italian trattoria opened in June and has a loyal following”
So many things make a dining experience memorable. First impressions of the space, how you are greeted
on arrival, lighting, music, the knowledge (or lack thereof) of staff, how comfy the chairs are and how crisp
the linen is. All this, and we haven’t even got to the food. But, more often it seems, I am happily surprised by
the quality of food and ser vice in and around Perth. And so it was the night I visited Nuvoletta.
On the site of old Little Cloud (Nuvoletta means a little cloud in Italian), this Italian trattoria
opened in June and has a loyal following. The casual elegance of the Little Cloud has remained. Tables
are well spaced, high-back white leather chairs are most inviting, and the ser vice is spot on. However, the
star of the show is the food. Chef and owner Maria Capone is Dutch but spent a great deal of time in
the kitchen with her Italian mother-in-law, and her menu is a tribute to the southern Italian kitchen.
An antipasto platter for two, although comprised of the standard prosciutto, formag gio and
veg etables, is lifted by the quality. Mondo meats are sliced thinly, cubes of parmeggiano reggiano are
not too big and slithers of marinated eggplant have the right amount of tang. Try the br odo di polpette
(meatball broth) with pastina. Divinely moist veal meatballs, bound with béchamel and with a sprinkling
of herbs, floating in traditional chicken brodo (stock) with just-cooked pastina. It’s quirkily ser ved in a
glass jar, adding to the rustic feel. It’s a fabulous dish and one you won’t find anywhere else.
Barciole – thin slices of veal, dunked in egg and coated in crumbs, romano cheese and parsely – are
rolled, skewered and grilled. This simplest of dishes, bursting with base flavours, is ser ved on a bed of
boiled potatoes and green beans, all seasoned with pepper, salt and a squirt of lemon. Wonderful.
Whiting involtini on a bed of angel hair pasta
is, again, an exercise in flavo ur. The fillets are
pounded, then rolled, crumbed, shallow fried and
stewed in a sweet napoletana sauce. Nothing fancy,
Don’t go past the finnochio con aranci. Fresh,
cr unchy, thin slices of fennel are mixed with pieces
of orange, Sicilian green olives, mint and lemon to
produce what was a visual, taste and textural treat,
refreshing the palate and balancing out our mains.
All desserts are made on the premises, with
the cassata with strawberries mulled in red wine
a specialty. This little Italian gem is well worth a
visit. Open for dinner Thursday–Saturday, fully licensed
and BYO for wine only. Shop 8/460 Stirling Highway,
(08) 9284 5575.
NUVOLETTA TRATTORIA | PEPPERMINT GROVE
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