Home' Scoop : Scoop 54 Summer 2010 Contents 188 SCOOP SUMMER 2010
FOOD + WINE dining out
GRILL’D BURGERS | SUBIACO
The Imperial Hotel in York was built in 1886 and is a nationally heritag e-listed
building. Painstakingly restored by John Saville-Wright and Lynette Vincenti
over the past three years, the transformation is stunning – this grand old dame
has been brought back to its former glory.
It’s a surprise to learn that the chef is Chris K auffman. This unassuming
Frenchman trained under the for midable Allan Ducasse and now shares a little
of that culinary magic with York diners. T he menu is, understandably, French-
inspired and we kicked things off with some tasty (and complimentary) house-
baked rye. A smoked sardine pate nods to old-school French training – smooth
and silky and rolled in well-cured smoked salmon. Seasoning was subtle and the
addition of the crispiest spinach leaves and shaved beetroot added texture.
Curried tempura prawns with sushi rice cake, while different, didn’t quite
hit the mark. The prawns, although plump and moist, lacked the necessary
crunch. The sushi cake, however, was just right: chewy and sticky to the touch.
Mains were a French affair, the tournedo of Angus fillet (225g, $32) done
to perfection. Swede and apple puree balanced the robustness of the meat
and mushroom sauce finished it off, sweetness and saltiness coming together.
The dish of the night, however, was the swordfish. Notoriously easy to
overcook, it was moist and simply seasoned with a hint of cur ry. There is
often a tendency to over salt swordfish and tuna but, here, restraint was the
key. Perfectly blanched, buttery broccolini and spinach rounded it off.
The Imperial has also started its own brewery, with one of the three beers
being made using an original 100-year-old York recipe. So, g o on, take a mini
break and head to York. Open Thursday–Sunday for pub lunches and Thursday-
Sunday for à la carte dinner fr om 6pm. 83 Avon Ter race, (08) 9641 1255.
THE IMPERIAL HOTEL | YORK
“It’s a surprise to learn that the chef is Chris
Kauffman. This unassuming Frenchman trained
under the formidable Allan Ducasse”
KNOW THIS The Imperial Hotel sources as much produce locally as possible. Wonderfully earthy York Olive Oil is used, and this company is
also now producing cream and chocolate. Pickels and jams are from Perts Pantry, and beef is Avon Valley Angus. If you are heading to York, make
sure to check out the new Mill Markets, next-door to the Mill Cafe. Selling a big variety of local produce, pickles and chutneys (from Stan the
Man), as well as art and crafts, it’s a great place to wander through and get a taste of what this lovely pocket of WA has to offer. On the day we
visited, there were even baby ducklings for sale. While you’re there, enjoy breakfast at The Mill. This is, reputedly, where the farmers come for
a weekend morning feed. Pancakes are fluffy and moist, eggs cooked to order and the bread thick and crusty. Eat outside while the kids enjoy
themselves in the nearby play area, and wonder why it has taken you so long to visit.
“All patties are preservative-free, with the
veggie patties being 100 per cent vegan”
Grill’d, the popular burger joint in Mount Lawley, opened in Subiaco
on the site of the old Cino to Go in late September. Per use the long
burger menu, make your decision, choose your bread ,and order and
pay at the counter. All patties are preser vative free with the veggie
patties being 100 per cent vegan. Chips are cooked in cholesterol-free
oil and gluten-free buns are available. Hungry? Go the Wild Wild West,
with bacon, cheese, eg g, beetroot, salad, relish and mayo ($13.50). I
couldn’t resist the Summer Sunset: panini filled with a well-cooked
beef pattie, avocado, bacon, pineapple and salad. The relish is not
too sweet, the mayonnaise pretty good. For something different, the
Kung Fu Fighter comes with coriander, car rot and satay sauce. There
are lamb and chicken burgers, steak sandwiches, scotch fillet salads, and
mushroom and feta salads. The kids are well catered for with mini meals
coming with fries, a juice box, colouring pens and paper. And you know
how it goes: if the kids are happy... Open Sunday–Thursday 11am–10pm
and Friday-Saturday 11am-11pm, BYO. Cor ner Rokeby and Roberts r oads,
(08) 9380 9497.
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