Home' Scoop : Scoop 59 Autumn 2012 Contents AD
Breakfast served till 11.30am
Monday – Friday
All day breakfast Saturdays
Kitchen open till 11.30pm
Wednesday – Saturday
Cheeky After Work Comedy
Every 2nd Wednesday night
6/317 Murray Street, off Wolf Lane, Perth WA 6000
p: 08 9486 4947 e: email@example.com
PERTH’S CHEEKIEST LANEWAY BAR
serving it up...
plus check out...
When my husband and I were courting, we
spent many an evening on the terrace at Cafe
Amadeus on George Street, Fremantle. There,
over hot chocolates and cakes, we talked for
hours and solved the problems of the world.
Heady days indeed.
This gorgeous old building now houses
Barque, which opened in December. Owners
Gary Bennett and Therese O’Toole have made
the most of the space. Tables are scattered
outside in the grotto-style courtyard, while the
elevated, wraparound verandah is still dotted
with smaller tables. Inside, boards have been
polished, some booths added and the kitchen
opened up. It’s a lovely, airy, art-filled space.
The menu draws heavily on Khmer influences,
along with enough clever twists to ensure it remains
edgy while staying well clear of Asian-fusion.
Four large Mekong fried chicken wings ($14)
get things rolling – or, rather, steamrolling – along.
These are, quite simply, outstanding. The big wings
are brined then popped in a steam oven to ensure
moistness. Marinated in oyster sauce, Schezuan
pepper, garlic and spices, they’re finally deep fried
to crispy wonderfulness.
The prawn pancake is more like a soft, wobbly
frittata. Generously topped, it comes with a very tidy
nahm jim sauce on the side. Duck and shitake spring
rolls are tightly packed with seasoned, shredded
duck, mushroom and spices. I taste cinnamon, star
anise, coriander, maybe a hint of galangal.
Asian greens with fermented soya bean are
divine. Crispy-skin duck with sour cherries, first
steamed to open the bird’s pores then roasted, is
one of the more interesting and satisfying dishes
I’ve tasted in quite a while.
Serves are generous, the wine list is well
thought-out, and the prices for both food and
wine are reasonable.
Chef Gary Bennett makes all his own curry
pastes, marinades and sauces from scratch, and
it shows. He brings it all together creatively with
an impressive understanding of modern cooking
techniques. This is wonderful, adventurous food
which salutes the clean freshness of the South
East Asian kitchen.
125 George Street, Fremantle (08) 9339 5524. Open Wednesday-Saturday 11am-11pm,
Sunday 10am-4pm, and for breakfast Wednesday-Sunday
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