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EATING OUT restaurant reviews
Last year, the Ospitalità Italiana, under the auspices
of the Italian government, awarded eight WA
restaurants their seal of excellence, recognising
restaurants that uphold the country’s tradition to a
very high standard.
In order to get the gong, restaurants had to be
truly Italian, with an Italian chef, Italian service and
traditional Italian products and cuisine.
One of those so recognised was the city’s
Millioncino, and rightly so. There’s no great
innovation, no fancy mixing of flavours. Nor is there
any deconstruction of classic dishes. Instead, it’s
good, honest food served in elegant surroundings.
451 Murray Street, Perth (08) 9480 3884. Open Monday-Friday
12pm-2pm, 6pm-late, Saturday 6pm-late
After many years under the stewardship
of Mario Chiametti, the restaurant changed
hands at the beginning of the year. The Costanza
family, originally from Sicily, has moved here
from Rome and it’s a true family affair. Papà
Antonio is in the kitchen while his daughter,
son and both in-laws man the floor and help
It’s a very polished act and worth a visit just to
experience the service of Italy, where being a
waiter is a profession, not merely a job.
Octopus salad is a tribute to the Sicilian
kitchen. Moist, just-chewy tentacles are thickly
sliced, salted, and then drizzled with excellent olive
oil and lemon. A sprinkling of parsley and that’s it.
Macaroncini with prawns, cream and lemon is
a dish I’ve only seen on menus in Sicily until now.
Looking like old-fashioned macaroni cheese, al
dente pasta is mixed with prawns, just enough
cream to coat the pasta and some lemon to cut
through and lighten the dish. It’s delicious.
Fish scattered with olives and almonds is
another southern Italian winner. With its asparagus
– disappointingly overcooked – wrapped in
prosciutto and a piped floret of mashed potato,
it’s like a shrine to the 70s.
Vegetables are, wonderfully, included with all
mains – something of a rarity these days. However,
bread is not. It’s a small gripe but I really don’t like
being charged $7.50 , or anything for that matter, for
bread, especially in an Italian restaurant. It’s flour,
yeast and water and is part of every Italian meal.
That aside, Millioncino is a dining experience
where the food is simple and good and the
service and surroundings contribute to a gracious
Macaroncini with prawns, cream and lemon.
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