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EATING IN cookbooks
CHEFS OF THE MARGARET
Sue-Lyn Aldrian-Moyle and Lisa Hanley,
Margaret River Press, $55
Independently published with no financial input
from the restaurants involved, this glossy title
celebrates the food and chefs in Margaret River, with
backstories and recipes from some of Margs’ most
respected cheferati. Cheffy techniques have been
converted into a format home cooks can follow. If
you can’t find it in bookshops, contact the publisher
direct – margaretriverpress.com.
MUST TRY Chocolate and vanilla bombe from
Yallingup’s Studio Bistro.
FROM SEASON TO SEASON
Sophie Dahl, Harper Collins, $49.99
The beautiful Dahl started out as a massive size 16
model – irony intended – and is now wafer thin. For
this reason one might be tempted to overlook this
book. Yet the author, granddaughter of Roald Dahl,
kicks significant arse when it comes to cooking.
Professing her ineptitude as a cook from the start, her
simple recipes say much about a palate developed
over a life of travel. Best, though, are the tales of a
young woman living in an eccentric Sophie’s World
populated by dancing pigeons, lovers who don’t
speak English and a gooseberry-loving aunt.
MUST TRY Tzatziki – one of the dishes in the
Big Fat Feast section.
WINTER ON THE FARM
Matthew Evans, Murdoch Books, $49.99
Ex-Sydney Morning Herald restaurant critic Evans
moved to a farm in Tasmania to grow fresh produce
(and whiskers). In between cooking on a wood-
fired Rayburn and picking one hell of a lot of root
vegetables, Evans has found time to star in SBS
television series The Gourmet Farmer and write
several food books. A chef before he was a writer,
Evans not only knows his food but can actually write.
The recipes rock, the vernacular is whimsical and
the food – from rib-sticking puds and savouries to
“very chocolatey cake” – is exactly what the doctor
ordered for the cooler weather.
MUST TRY Twice cooked pork.
TASTE OF NAPLES
Arturo Iengo, New Holland, $29.95
Drawing heavily on cucina povera – kitchen of the
poor – a Neopolitan chef shares some of his favourite
dishes from Naples and the region of Campania.
This is comfort food at its best, from baccala (salt
cod) casseroles and mozzarella toasties to pasta with
broad beans, eggplant parmigiana and any number
of dolci. In a world filled with food designed to
impress, there’s something fundamentally satisfying
about recipes that take the most humble ingredients
and make them into something wonderful.
MUST TRY Struffoli – Christmas fritters with
honey and candied peel.
Merelyn Frank Chalmers et al, Hardie Grant, $59.95
Every Monday morning for three years, Frank
Chalmers and five foodie mates gathered to test
recipes sent to them by Russian grandmas, Polish
aunts and others in the Jewish community. Over 100
are included in this book, which has at its heart the
Jewish preoccupation (some might say obsession)
with food. From kugelhopf to kreplach, challah to
chopped liver, here are recipes handed down through
generations, with notes from the contributors.
MUST TRY Zserbo slice, a traditional favourite made
with yeasted pastry, walnuts and chocolate.
words Jane Cornes
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