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salivating as they come up with ways to capitalise
on a community looking for a scapeg oat for its
health issues. Seemingly overnight, a range of
products we never suspected contained gluten in
the first place (some yoghurts, most sausages) bear
a ‘gluten free’ sticker, usually because the gluten-
based filler/thickener/binder has been replaced
with a non-wheaten version.
While acute sufferers of Coeliac disease need
to avoid gluten of all types, people experiencing
less severe versions of gluten intolerance often
find that simply avoiding bread does the trick.
But do they need to? Kingsley Sullivan,
co-owner of New Norcia Bakeries, says no. He
believes the problem lies more with how we make
our bread and what’s in it.
“When I first came into the baking industry,
the old bakers used to talk about 12-hour
doughs. They’d start a dough at 3pm and then
bake it at 3am,” he says. “That’s 12 hours
of fermentation, a process that changes the
structure of the gluten. Modern bread isn’t made
that way. Ferments are much shorter, or almost
non-existent, and extra gluten along with other
chemicals are sometimes added to increase the
dough’s capacity to rise. Our natural sourdoughs
have always had this long fermentation.”
Kingsley also believes that what many
call gluten intolerance is in fact a reaction to
Eating Gluten free
Perth’s only dedicated gluten-free cafe and bakery sells a wide range of baked goods including
sausage rolls, cakes, quiches, burgers and pies, all of which are gluten free. Shop 10a, Winthrop
Village Shopping Centre, Somerville Boulevard, Winthrop, alternativebites.com.au .
BALINGUP BRONZE CAFE
Gluten-free everything is the go at this popular and longstanding gluten-free haven, offering
everything from curries and papadams to muffins, quiches, cakes and sandwiches. Corner of
Forest Street and South Western Highway, Balingup, balingupbronzegallery.com.au.
HITTING A SNAG
Annie Kavanagh of Spencers Brook Farm has just introduced a gluten- and preservative-free
pure pork snag to her range. All the best meat from her free range pigs is mixed with a little
sea salt, black pepper and rice flour. Buy them at the Subiaco Farmers Market or order online.
THYME TO EAT
Chef Emma Galloway lives in Perth and blogs about gluten-free recipes. mydarlinglemonthyme.com.
the excessive amount of chemicals found in
“Take yeast, for instance,” he says. “A cup of
sourdough culture contains around 50 million
yeast spores. A single serve of commercial dried
yeast contains around 130 billion. It stands to
reason that the sourdough is much more g entle
on the body.”
Kingsley says the type of wheat flour itself
also plays a role. “Factor in the use of modern
strains of wheat that are bred to have more
gluten, and it’s hardly surprising those with gluten
sensitivity react. However this is easily overcome
by slow fermentation.”
Yoke Mardewi is a local blogger, teacher and
author of two bestselling books on the ancient
art of sourdough baking. Her second book,
Sourdough, includes recipes for gluten-free waffles,
crumpets and breads.
“Starting in the 1970s, there was a move from
two shifts in a bakery to one, and the greater
use of baker’s yeast,” she says. “Before that,
everybody used sourdough cultures and the
fermentation time was longer.
“In true sourdough bread with no baker’s yeast
and a slow fermentation of at least eight hours, the
gluten is digested by the bacteria in the culture.”
New research from the University of Bari in
Italy confirms the ability of sourdough cultures
Gluten free reading
Sourdough, by Yoke Mardewi (above),
New Holland ($35). For details of this, along
with Yoke’s first book on sourdough baking,
her classes and other sourdough-related
things, visit wildsourdough.com.au .
From my Kitchen to Yours, by Sally
Wise, ABC Books ($24.95). A wide variety of
recipes and hints for gluten-free cooking.
Kids with Celiac Disease, by
Danna Korn, Woodbine House ($45).
Seriously Good! Gluten-free Baking,
by Phil Vickery, Kyle Cathie ($45).
Gluten-free Italian, by Jacqueline
Mallorca, Da Capo Press ($21.95).
Buying gluten free
Gluten-free bread is produced locally by
Bodhi’s Bakehouse (bodhi.com.au) and
New Norcia Bakeries (newnorciabaker.
com.au), both of whom supply a variety of
retail outlets. Lawley’s bakery in Mt Lawley
also bakes gluten-free bread. Gluten-free
products can also be bought at Loose
Produce in Como and in all health food
stores. On-line stores absolutelyglutenfree.
com.au and glutenfreeshop.com.au both
carry at least 1500 gluten-free products.
a state-by-state search function for gluten-
free manufacturers, services, shopping
and restaurants, and is also available for
iPhone and Android.
“What many call gluten intolerance is in fact a
reaction to the excessive amount of chemicals
found in mass-produced bread”
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